Nobody Warns You About These 4 Places in Spain

Spain rewards the traveller who looks beyond the obvious. Three of its most extraordinary destinations — Granada, Madrid, and Burgos — couldn't be more different from each other. One is Moorish and mountainous. One is a European capital with the best art museums in the world. One is a medieval pilgrimage city that most visitors to Spain have never heard of. All three are worth your time.

Granada

Alhambra Palace

Built by the Nasrid sultans between the 13th and 15th centuries on a ridge above Granada, the Alhambra is the most visited monument in Spain — and completely worth the effort of getting tickets. The Nasrid Palaces section has timed entry limited to 30 minutes per slot — the honeycomb ceilings and interlocking geometric plasterwork are unlike anything else in Europe. Book tickets the moment they open online; they routinely sell out weeks ahead. The Generalife gardens above the complex have the best views and far fewer people.

Albaicín neighbourhood

The old Moorish quarter climbs the hill opposite the Alhambra. Walk up to the Mirador de San Nicolás at sunset for the view of the palace lit against the Sierra Nevada — one of the most photographed views in Spain. The narrow streets are lined with tea houses serving Moroccan mint tea and pastries until midnight. One of the few places in Europe where medieval urban planning survived largely intact.

Granada Cathedral and Royal Chapel

The cathedral is the second largest in Spain. The Royal Chapel next door holds the tombs of Ferdinand and Isabella — the monarchs who commissioned Columbus's voyage and completed the Reconquista. The original royal crowns and sceptres are displayed in the sacristy. Far fewer crowds than the Alhambra and equally significant historically.

Madrid

Museo del Prado

One of the greatest art collections in the world. Velázquez, Goya, El Greco, Rubens, Bosch — the permanent collection alone takes a full day to see properly. The Goya Black Paintings (originally painted directly on the walls of his house) are in Room 067 and are among the strangest and most powerful works in European art. Free entry for the last two hours before closing.

Retiro Park

A 350-acre park in the centre of Madrid. Rowing boats on the lake, a 19th-century crystal palace used for contemporary art exhibitions, and Sunday morning markets along the perimeter. Used by Madrileños for every purpose — exercise, dates, family lunches, napping. The Bosque del Recuerdo memorial grove in the northeast corner is worth finding.

Mercado de San Miguel

A covered iron market from 1916, now a food hall with some of the best pintxos, jamón, and seafood in the city. Best visited late morning before it gets crowded. Vermouth before lunch is the local custom — order a vermut at the bar in the corner and watch the market fill up.

Royal Palace of Madrid

The official residence of the Spanish royal family, though they don't live there — they use it for state ceremonies. Over 3,400 rooms, though only around 50 are open to the public. The Royal Armoury has one of the best collections of medieval armour in Europe. Combine with a visit to the adjacent Almudena Cathedral and the views from the park below.

Burgos

Burgos Cathedral

A UNESCO World Heritage Gothic cathedral started in 1221 and still being modified 600 years later. The Golden Staircase inside (designed by Diego de Siloé in the 16th century) is a masterpiece of Renaissance stonework. The tomb of El Cid — Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar, the medieval warrior who became Spain's national hero — is in the floor of the nave. Most visitors to Spain have never been here, which means you'll often have the interior largely to yourself.

Camino de Santiago

Burgos sits on the French Way of the Camino de Santiago — the most walked pilgrimage route in the world. Even if you're not walking the full route, spending an evening watching pilgrims arrive in the old town, visiting the pilgrims' hostel, and understanding what draws hundreds of thousands of people to walk 800 kilometres puts the city in a completely different context.

El Cid Museum

Burgos was the birthplace of Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar — El Cid — in the 11th century. The museum traces his life, his campaigns against both Christian and Moorish rulers, and his enduring mythology. The equestrian statue in the city centre is one of the most impressive public sculptures in Spain.

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