Peru's Hidden Side Most Tourists Never See

Most people who visit Peru come for Machu Picchu. That's completely understandable — it's one of the most remarkable things humans have ever built. But building your entire trip around a single site means missing a country that has more distinct landscapes, cultures, and experiences per square kilometre than almost anywhere on earth.

Machu Picchu — the right way

The site sits at 2,430 metres. Take the bus from Aguas Calientes rather than trekking up from 4 am — you'll have more energy for the site itself. The classic Inca Trail requires a permit booked months in advance; the Salkantay Trek is less regulated and equally spectacular. Go at opening (6 am) for the mist and the light, and avoid August if possible.

Cusco's Plaza de Armas

The Spanish built their colonial cathedral on top of an Inca palace and didn't bother hiding it — you can see the Inca stonework at the base of the cathedral walls. Altitude in Cusco (3,400 m) is serious — give yourself two days to acclimatise before doing anything strenuous.

Sacred Valley

The valley between Cusco and Machu Picchu has better-preserved Inca agricultural terraces than the famous site itself, and almost no one at them. The salt evaporation ponds at Maras — thousands of terraced pools filled with spring water that crystallise into pink salt — are as strange and beautiful as anything in Peru.

Colca Canyon

One of the deepest canyons on earth — twice the depth of the Grand Canyon. The Andean condor, with a wingspan up to 3.3 metres, rides thermals above the canyon from around 9 am. Reached from Arequipa, which is worth a full day itself for the Santa Catalina Monastery — a walled city within a city.

Lake Titicaca and the Uros Islands

At 3,810 metres above sea level, the highest navigable lake in the world. The Uros people have lived on floating islands made entirely of bundled totora reeds for centuries. A half-day boat tour from Puno visits the islands; extend to a full day to reach the natural island of Taquile, where the weaving tradition is UNESCO-recognised.

Huacachina — the desert oasis

A lagoon surrounded by sand dunes, three hours south of Lima. Sandboarding down the dunes in the afternoon and watching the desert turn orange at sunset is one of those experiences that feels too cinematic to be real.

Lima food scene

Lima has quietly become one of the best food cities in the world. Peruvian ceviche — white fish cured in tiger's milk (lime juice, chilli, onion) — is the thing to order first. Central, Maido, and Kjolle regularly appear on the World's 50 Best Restaurants list.

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